Bulgari S.p.A (; stylized as BVLGARI) is an Italian luxury brand known for its jewellery, watches, fragrances, accessories and leather goods. While the vast majority of design, production and marketing is overseen and executed by Bulgari alone, the company does, at times, partner with other entities. For example, Bulgari eyewear is produced through a licensing agreement with Luxottica in Milan, and, in 2001, the brand formed a joint venture with Luxury Group Marriott International to launch its hotel brand, Bulgari Hotels & Resorts.
Currently part of the LVMH Group, Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirios Boulgaris (later Italianized to Sotirio Bulgari) as a single jewellery shop. The company now has stores around the world.
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The Bulgari logo
The Bulgari logo--written BVLGARI in the classical Latin alphabet--was used for the first time in 1934 above the central doorway of the Via Condotti flagship store. In a nod to ancient Rome, the "U" was replaced with the letter "V".
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History
From its origins through the 1940s
The Bulgaris were an ancient silversmithing family from the Epirus region of Greece. Sotirio Bulgari (Bulgarian: ????? ???????; Greek: ???????? ?????????, pronounced [so'tir?os 'vul?aris]) born in an Aromanian village known as Kalarites, began his career as a jeweller in the Greek village (Epirus, Greece), where his first store can still be seen.
In 1881, Sotirio Bulgari moved to Rome and, in 1884, opened his first store on via Sistina 85. In 1905, he unveiled the Via Condotti shop that would become the company's flagship--and a symbol of the company's heritage as well as a reference point for all subsequent Bulgari boutiques. In its early years, Bulgari was known for silver pieces that borrowed elements from Byzantine and Islamic art, combining them with allegorical, floral and foliate motifs. At the time, Paris was the apex of fashion and creativity, and its trends influenced Sotirio's designs for decades: jewels of the early '20s were characterised by platinum Art Deco settings while those of the '30s featured geometric diamond motifs--sometimes set in combination with coloured gemstones. Convertible jewels were also popular during the time, and one of Bulgari's greatest early successes was the Trombino, a small trumpet-shaped ring.
In 1932, Sotirio passed away, leaving the business to his two sons, Giorgio (1890-1966) and Costantino (1889-1973), who each had a keen interest in precious stones and jewels. During the Second World War, most new jewellery was crafted out of gold, as gems were scarce, and designs became softer and more natural feeling. As the '40s came to a close, Bulgari introduced Serpenti bracelet-watches, launching the collection that would go on to become one of the brand's most iconic.
The '50s and the '60s: Colour revolution and Dolce Vita
In the '50s, Rome earned a reputation as "Hollywood on the Tiber." As more and more films came to be shot at Cinecittà studios, movie stars descended upon Rome, indulging in its pleasures and giving rise to the era of Dolce Vita. For Bulgari, those years were a golden age, with the brand becoming associated with the heady scene; divas, cinema stars and socialites became devotees of the Roman jeweller, thereby raising its profile among a rarefied social set. Some of its best-known clients included Elizabeth Taylor, Anna Magnani, Ingrid Bergman and Gina Lollobrigida.
At the same time, Bulgari style embraced a new spirit. The post-war boom saw a return to precious materials, particularly white metals covered in diamonds. In the '50s, Bulgari launched its first floral brooches--called en tremblant because of their trembling diamond corollas. At the end of the '50s, Bulgari began to establish its iconic motifs, introducing structured, symmetrical shapes in yellow gold set with brilliant gems--chosen for their colour rather than intrinsic value. Among these multi-hued jewels, cabochon cuts were another innovation. These new pieces were a significant departure from classical Parisian design, and affirmed the emergence of a distinctive Bulgari look.
The '70s: Eclectic creativity and global expansion
During the 1970s, Bulgari stores opened in New York, Geneva, Monte Carlo and Paris. This era marks the beginning of the Group's international expansion. A number of new motifs made their debut as well--jewels became recognisable for their angular forms, vibrant colours, oval elements with cabochons, voluptuous chains and maxi sautoirs, whilst the predominant use of yellow gold made precious pieces feel all the more wearable, and became known as a Bulgari trademark. In 1977, Bulgari entered the world of horlogerie with the launch of the BVLGARI BVLGARI watch, a style that remains an iconic piece today.
The 80s: Prêt-à-porter jewellery
In the early 80s, to oversee all production of Bulgari watches, Bulgari Time was founded in Switzerland. In 1984, Paolo and Nicola Bulgari, Giorgio's sons, became Chairman and Vice-Chairman, respectively, while their nephew, Francesco Trapani, became Chief Executive Officer.
During this decade, Bulgari deepened its dedication to creating wearable high jewellery, debuting pieces that were unconventional, daring, precious--and suitable for any occasion. This concept has been developed through modular jewellery, where repeated elements with a strong, recognisable design were used to craft multiple creations. These elements can be crafted in any material, from gold to diamonds, so that they mirror the bespoke feel of prêt-à-porter fashions. The first example of this concept was Parentesi. More and more, designers turned to unconventional materials in their collections, using everything from coloured silk cords to ceramics.
From the 90s to the new millennium
Emerging from a period of growth, change and challenge, Bulgari diversified its brand in 1993 with the launch of its first fragrance, Eau Parfumée au The Vert and the founding of Bulgari Parfums in Switzerland to oversee the creation and production of all perfumes. In 1995, Bulgari pushed ahead with an aggressive programme for growth, becoming listed on the Milan Stock Exchange for the first time. In 1996, the brand launched its first accessories collection, beginning with silk scarves before developing a wide range of leather accessories and eyewear. In 1999, the brand welcomed the millennium with the launch of the B.zero1 ring, which became one of its best-selling creations of all times.
The company saw 150% revenue growth between 1997 and 2003.
The 21st century
The year 2000 was the beginning of an increasingly aggressive period of verticalization for Bulgari, with the acquisition of the luxury watchmaking brands Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta, followed by the takeover of the jewellery firm Crova and of other companies that specialised in leather goods and watchmaking. The opening of the first Bulgari Hotel in Milan in 2004 further confirmed the expansion strategy of the brand, and was the result of a joint venture with Luxury Group, a division of Marriott International. In 2009, Bulgari celebrated its 125th anniversary with a retrospective of the brand's history, held in Rome at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. That same year, the snake--a motif that appeared in Bulgari collections from the 1960s--re-emerged as the emblem of the Serpenti collection.
In 2011, Bulgari signed a strategic alliance with LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, the world's leading luxury group, which has a unique portfolio of over 60 prestigious brands. The agreement was based on a stock transfer of the Bulgari family's shares in Bulgari S.p.A. to LVMH, which positioned the family as the second largest majority shareholder in the LVMH Group, behind the Arnaults in LVMH.
The takeover doubled the size of LVMH's watches and jewellery unit, which at the time of the acquisition included Tag Heuer timepieces and De Beers diamond necklaces. The acquisition concluded on 4 October 2011 as Bulgari was delisted from the Borsa Italiana.
In 2013, Bulgari launched the Divas' Dream Jewellery Collection, a design that quickly became an icon, featured in collections from jewellery to watches and accessories.
In 2014, Bulgari celebrated the 130th anniversary of the brand. To mark the occasion, the shop at Via Condotti 10 was reimagined by the architect Peter Marino, and reopened. On the same day, the brand donated EUR1.5 million to the city of Rome for the restoration of the Spanish Steps. A few months after the Grand Opening, the DOMVS was inaugurated in the redesigned Bulgari boutique, creating a gallery space to house the treasures of Bulgari's Heritage Collection.
In 2017, Bulgari opened a new jewellery manufacturing headquarters in Valenza. The largest in Europe, with a total area of 14,000 m2, the manufacture has been given a GOLD LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification for outstanding sustainability in its design.
Products
Jewellery
Bvlgari's current jewellery collections include B.zero1, Divas' Dream, Serpenti, BVLGARI BVLGARI, Parentesi, and a bridal line. Bulgari is also known for its one-of-a-kind High Jewellery creations. Renowned for a stylistic audacity and a penchant for colour especially sapphires mixed in unique formats, a Bulgari piece is immediately recognisable. Daring designs, striking materials and Roman art and architecture are the distinctive characteristics that define the Bulgari style.
Watches
Bulgari's current watches collections include Octo, BVLGARI BVLGARI, Diagono and Haute Horlogerie creations for men, and LVCEA, Serpenti, Divas' Dream, BVLGARI BVLGARI, B.zero1 and High Jewellery timepieces for women. Genuine Bulgari watches have a unique serial number that is registered with the company. Blending Italian design with the art of Swiss watchmaking, Bulgari specialises in crafting ultra-complex timepieces. Bulgari Haute Horlogerie SA was founded in 1980 and is headquartered in Neuchâtel. Dedicated facilities in Switzerland ensure that each piece is executed with precision and expertise.
Fragrances
Bulgari's current fragrance assortment includes Goldea, Splendida and Omnia for women, Bulgari Man, Aqua, the Classics, and Blv Pour Homme for men, whilst Bulgari Le Gemme and Eau Parfumée comprise the High Perfumery collection. The collections are inspired by gemstones and nature, and are crafted with the same expertise and savoir-faire that goes into the creation of Bulgari jewels.
Accessories and leather goods
Every aspect of the creation of Bulgari accessories and leather goods, from conception to sourcing and manufacturing, is handled in the Bulgari atelier in Florence. Twice a year, Bulgari presents its latest collections at Milan Fashion Week, debuting them at the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter shows. Some of the most iconic accessories lines are Serpenti Forever and Divas' Dream, both of which are inspired by their namesake jewellery collections.
Bulgari Hotels & Resorts
In 2001, Bulgari S.p.A formed a joint venture with Luxury Group, a division of Marriott International, to launch Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, a collection of luxury hotels with Italian design by the architectural firm Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel. Bulgari Hotels & Resorts has properties in Milan (opened in 2004), Bali (2006), London (2012), Beijing (2017), Dubai (2017) and Shanghai (2018). Three additional hotels are planned to open between 2020 and 2022 in Moscow, Paris and Tokyo.
In 2011, Bulgari Bali was chosen by the readers of Smart Travel Asia magazine as number 2 of top places to stay in Asia. In 2017, Bulgari London Hotel Private Screening Room was named as one of the top private screening rooms in London by Ikon London Magazine. The Bulgari luxury resort in Dubai has been cited to be the costliest hotel in the Middle East, surpassing the room cost of Burj al Arab.
Partnership with Save the Children
In 2009, Bulgari entered a partnership with Save the Children. The campaign included a Save the Children custom-designed jewellery collection, of which a portion of the proceeds went to the charity. As of 2018, Bulgari's contribution has totalled 80 million dollars, directly reached 334,101 children, trained 9,899 teachers and provided rehabilitation activities in 206 schools.
Boutiques
Bulgari relies on a distribution network of about 300 stores, located in the most exclusive shopping areas in the world. The largest Bulgari store in the world is the 10-story Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, 940 square meters of retail floor space, including a restaurant and lounge bar.
North American Bulgari boutiques and distributors are found in Aspen, Atlanta, Beverly Hills, Bal Harbour, Boca Raton, Bethesda (Chevy Chase), Charlotte, Chicago, Costa Mesa, Dallas, Honolulu, Houston, King of Prussia, New York, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Cabo San Lucas (Mexico), Montreal, Palm Beach, San Francisco, Short Hills, and Scottsdale, Arizona.
South American Bulgari distributors are found in Lima, Bogotá, São Paulo, Margarita Island and Quito.
References
External links
- Official website
- Bulgari U.S. Site
- Bulgari Hotels and Resorts
Source of article : Wikipedia
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